Thursday, 12 January 2012

Luxor, Egypt. Then and Now

Further blogs from our visit to Egypt for Christmas, a three day trip to Luxor, staying at the charming Jolie Ville Hotel overlooking the Nile. This time "then and now's" with a literary connection and a hint of restitution an the end.


The Colossi of Memnon

The two huge statues of the Pharoah Amenhetep III [1390-1353 BC] were, I feel,  the inspiration for the first lines of the famous poem Ozymandias by Percy Bysse Shelley [1792-1822] The statues are all that is left of the Memorial Chapel of Amenhetep on the West Bank of the Nile at Luxor, previously Thebes.

"I met a traveller from an antique land
Who said: Two vast and trunkless legs of stone
Stand in the desert....."



They were first illustrated by Frederick Norden in 1737, then, left, in Napoleon's Description d'Egypt in 1793

December 2011

The Ramesseum

To the right of the statues in the far distance can be seen the Ramesseum, the memorial chapel of Rameses II [1279-1213BC] where lies the inspiration for the next lines of Ozymandias, referring perhaps to the fallen bust to the right of the  standing Osirid figures.

".............Near them, on the sand
Half sunk, a shattered image lies, whose frown,
and wrinkled lip, and sneer of cold command,
Tell that the sculptor well those passion read
Which yet survive, stamped on those lifeless things,

Description d'Egypt, 1798
The Rameseum of El-Kurneh by Francis Frith 1857
David Roberts, 1837/38, with a certain exageration of the statue's features.
December 2011


Below a general view of the Ramesseum by Norden in 1737 with the fallen visage of Ramsess II on the right. The figure on the ground in the middle between the four Osirid statues could the the bust removed by Belzoni mentioned below.



Below the same view today, some 275 years later.


The Younger Memnon now in the British Museum

The upper part of the statue to the right below was carted off by Giovanni Belzoni from the Ramesseum in 1816 and sold to the British Museum were it has pride of place. He published a print showing this carting off titled "Removal of the Younger Memnon in 1816"
Looking carefully you can see how well it would fit, the pyramid shape in the middle of the in situ part perfectly fits the lower part of the bust in the BM, below.

 Should it, or at least a copy, be returned to the temple?   


The Vestibule Gallery with the lower section of the Statue of Rameses II


Close up

Upper section of the Statue of Rameses in the British Museum

The arrival of the statue in London and publication of Belzoni's activities, to much excitement, inspired Shelley's Ozymandias, a Greek rendering of one off Rameses II names; User-Ma'at-Ra. Whether it was this statue or the fallen visage still remaining in the temple, and illustrated above, is a moot point.

The poem continues ;

Which yet survive, stamped on these lifeless things,
The hand that mocked them, and the heart that fed.
And on that pedestal these words appear
"My name is Ozymandias, King of Kings:
Look on my works, ye mighty, and despair!.
Nothing beside remains. Round the decay
of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare
The lone and level sands stretch far away.   


In his excellent book "The Illustrated Guide to Luxor" Kent R. Weeks states that " Seventeen centuries before Shelley, Diodorus Siculus had wrongly claimed to have seen an inscription on the fallen statue that read:" I am Ozymandias, King of Kings; if any would know how great I am, and where I lie, let him excel in any of my works".

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